从20世纪80年代后期开始,我着手对中国烹饪风味体系(或称菜系)的研究。对浙江风味的研究,是在浙江省烹饪协会的帮助下展开的。老友鲍力军(副会长兼秘书长)提供了许多机会与方便。一段时期,我到过浙江许多地方,读过许多关于浙江烹饪的资料,但是也有些地方没去过,没有感性认识。例如,浙西南的金华、衢州等具有代表性的地方;还有,瓯菜汇集点的 Since the late 1980s, I started to study the Chinese cuisine flavor system. The research on the flavor of Zhejiang is carried out with the help of Zhejiang Cuisine Association. Old friend Bao Lijun (vice president and secretary general) provides many opportunities and conveniences. For some time, I went to many places in Zhejiang and read lots of information about cooking in Zhejiang. However, I did not go to some places and did not have perceptual knowledge. For example, Southwest Zhejiang Jinhua, Quzhou and other representative places; Also,