顾渚村:茶香氤氲农家乐

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  大唐贡茶院 Tang Tribute Tea House
  
  虽然朔风呼啸,寒气袭人,但是浙江省长兴县水口乡顾渚村农家乐依然红红火火,落住游客3000多人,村里的农贸市场热闹非凡,周边景区游客络绎不绝,人们赏景品茗,快乐无比。
  茶文化——永恒的吸引力
  
  这里的农家乐主要是依托紫笋茶区及其他果木产业建立起来的。
  顾渚村紧挨顾渚山。顾渚山海拔355米,东临太湖,西靠大山,气候温和湿润,土质肥沃。该地出产的茶,色紫而形如笋,所以叫紫笋茶。唐初时评为天下第一,并被列为贡品。稍后,山上建起中国历史上首座贡茶院30间,专门为皇家、朝廷制作茶叶,当时制茶的人数最多达3万之众,岁贡茶18400斤,盛况空前。陆羽也在附近置茶园,并从事茶事研究,撰写完成世界上第一部茶叶著作《茶经》。
  那时为了督造贡茶,担任过湖州刺史的颜真卿、袁高、李词、杨汉公、张文规、杜牧等20多人都先后到过顾渚山,在山上刻石题字。诗人陆龟蒙、皮日休、皎然等也先后慕名而至,赋诗刻字,留下了许多摩崖石刻。顾渚因而被誉为“中国茶文化的发源地”。
  沿着曲折山径,登上顾渚山巅,举目远眺,冈峦叠嶂,群峰峥嵘。环顾四周,修竹苍翠,清泉潺潺,茶园遍布,郁郁葱葱,一派江南山村自然风光。据长兴县旅游局负责人介绍,在县委县政府的高度重视下,经过近几年的保护性开发建设,顾渚文化旅游区恢复了一批有影响力的旅游景点,如霸王潭、寿圣寺、境会亭、金山摩崖石刻等。中心景区的顾渚村,重新修复和新建了陆羽山庄、忘归亭、金沙泉、清风楼、枕流亭、息躬亭、木瓜堂、圃里茶园等景点。今日的顾渚文化旅游区,已成为人们返璞归真、回归大自然的极佳去处。
  在顾渚文化旅游区中,大唐贡茶院称得上是最重量级的茶文化景区。贡茶院坐落于顾渚山侧的虎头岩,绵延数百年后废圯,有人于其旁立碑,以告后人。当地政府投巨资重建的贡茶院工程于2006年动工,至今历时6年,第三期工程将于2012年春节前后竣工。新建的贡茶院雄踞于苍松翠竹之中,占地面积约5万平方米,建筑面积1.77万平方米,包括陆羽阁、国际交流厅、茶艺厅、茶宴厅、茶室、作坊展厅、吉祥寺大殿、展廊等建筑。贡茶院是集观光、修学、品茗、休闲为一体,自然景观与人文胜迹相得益彰的茶文化旅游景区。
  如今,顾渚山、大唐贡茶院、紫笋茶园、金沙泉环抱着顾渚村,茶香氤氲。进入顾渚村,许多农家乐的命名与茶有联系,诸如“顾渚风情”“金沙香茗”“香茶”“紫笋农家乐”……如同置身于贡茶院雅室茶座,缕缕茶香沁人心脾。随着顾渚村农家乐美名远扬,八方游客纷至沓来,给当地带来了经济繁荣发展的无限生机。以前东倒西歪、破旧简陋的
  桃源山庄全景
  A panoramic view of Peach Stream Villas
  茅屋已被一幢幢二层、三层甚至四层的崭新别墅所代替。粉墙黛瓦,掩映于翠竹绿树丛中,美不胜收。
  政策给力,农家乐蓬勃发展
  “顾渚村农家乐之所以能有序健康发展,得益于县委县政府的惠农政策,它为顾渚村农家乐发展插上了腾飞的翅膀。 ”长兴县水口乡党委委员、乡农家乐负责人杨恢群深情地对笔者说。
  长兴人有句口头禅:“长兴农家乐看水口,水口农家乐在顾渚。 ”长兴农家乐多在水口乡,其中顾渚村占90%。到目前止,全村有大小农家乐297家,全村约一半农户开办了农家乐,床位达1.3万张。家家户户门前张灯结彩,酒旗飘扬。走进村内,村容村貌干净整洁,房前屋后花木扶疏。
  进入农家小院,看不到石砌围墙,映入眼帘的是杂树小竹篱笆,老藤枝蔓盘绕;小院内翠竹摇曳,桃梨成林,水池草鱼游弋;竹林下,孩子们正在荡秋千、爬滑竿;绿油油的菜地里,三四位城里姑娘在拔菜;竹阁内,年轻人有的在下棋,有的在喝茶聊天。他们是那样悠闲、自在、放松、快活。在这里,听不到闹市的喧嚣,唯有小鸟啁啾。吃,有价廉物美、绿
  
  农家乐采摘游
  Have fun in rural area
  
  色可口的农家饭菜;行,有阡陌交错、泥香四溢的乡间小道;游,有翠绿茶园、名刹贡茶院;玩,有轻松独特、快活怡人的农桑耕作体验。人们置身其间,有一种“久在樊笼里,复得返自然”的轻松和惬意。
  顾渚村的农家客房,干净舒适。在吉祥屋农家乐,每个客房都有电视、空调、卫生设施,可以上网,卡拉OK、棋牌室也一应俱全,与城里宾馆没啥两样。一日三餐,全是农家土菜。收费标准统一,包吃包住,两天一夜100元,节假日加10元。“定出这样优惠的价格,是想吸引更多回头客。 ”水口乡农家乐协会会长郑本良说。经营农家乐的陈老板告诉笔者,前几年来农家乐的大多数是城里的老年人,近几年来的中青年人多了起来。他们自己驾车,载着家人、朋友过来,在这里尽情地放松自己。“平常客源是否有问题? ”“我们不担心客源,一年四季客人不断,上海的、南京的、苏州的,现在杭州、湖州的客人也来了。 ”他得意地说。
  在2011年接近尾声时,笔者随便询问了几户农家乐业主:“今年收入比去年好吗? ”他们点点头,脸上露出灿烂笑容。一户农家乐业主轻声地说:“今年收入可达150万。 ”后面他又补充一句:“全靠党的政策好。 ”
  “全靠党的政策好。 ”这是顾渚村农家乐业主们发自肺腑的心声。自2004年以来,长兴县相继出台了一系列惠农政策文件,对农家乐的申批、补助、贷款、奖励、协调等都作了明确规定,扶持农家乐起步,引领农家乐发展,助推农家乐上档次规模经营。在2007年,长兴县又发出通知,对农家乐的建筑特色、土地使用、环境质量、菜肴品质等提出具体要求,并对精品工程达标和评上二至五星的农家乐,给予1万至5万的奖励。全力打造成长兴农家乐特色品牌,为农家乐转型升级指明了方向。
  据了解,县里每年都要举办餐饮烹饪、环境保护、社会治安、食品安全、服务技巧等各类培训班,不仅老板踊跃参加,而且还带着家属、帮工来学习。他们深有感触地说:“我们学到了知识本领,可以提高服务质量,有助于提升农家乐品质,这样回头客就多了。 ”长兴农家乐70%的回头客满意的也是这一点。
  
  体验项目乐活游客
  
  农家乐是近十多年来中国兴起的旅游产品,是一种时尚的旅游活动,远离喧嚣,回归自然,放松心情,备受人们尤其是城里人的青睐。为此,国家旅游局最近提出,对乡村休闲、农家乐要不断加大扶持力度,推进乡村休闲、农家乐旅游健康发展,使其成为今后国内旅游的主导。
  前几年,农家乐旅游被一些人理解为只是让城里人花较少的钱能体验另类生活。其实不然。长兴县采取“农家乐协会+农户”的模式,着力打造细节与品牌,一步步把农家乐推向精致与高端,因此受到方方面面的关注。
  城里人到农家乐,除了吃农家饭、住农家屋,最大的兴趣在于体验农事农活项目。顾渚村农家乐正是满足了城里游客的这种需求。他们设计推出的体验项目可谓丰富多彩。春
  农家乐茅草屋庭院 A courtyard of a rural household restaurant
  季有:摘草莓、采茶、炒茶、种菜、挖笋、钓鱼等;夏季有:摘枇杷、摘桃、摘梨、摘西瓜、摘葡萄、抓泥鳅等;秋季有:摘橘子、敲白果、打板栗、裹粽子、摸螺蛳等;冬季有:打年糕、酿米酒、磨豆腐、烧烤、篝火等。这些农事农活不仅富有乡土气息,而且参与性强,深受城里游客的欢迎。
  进入隆冬季节,农事农活相对清闲。但是在顾渚村农家的房前屋后的菜地里,都有城里人在割青菜、拔萝卜、挖番薯。从远处传来的欢笑声中,可以充分感觉到他们在这里很开心,很快乐。
  紫藤阁农家乐周老板说:“今年春节,有好几千人在顾渚村过大年,他们与我们一起写春联、贴春联、打年糕、磨豆腐,一起吃团圆饭,一起放鞭炮,一起走亲访友,就像一家人一样,其乐融融。”□
  (本文图片由长兴县旅游局提供)
  Tourism Boosts Village
  
  Economy
  By Ying Shefa
  Guzhu Village is a booming tourism destination for urbanites from Shanghai, Nanjing, Suzhou, Hangzhou and Huzhou, all the important cities in the Yangtze River Delta. Tourism experts may disagree about why this village attracts so many tourists, but scenic landscape, places of historical interests, rural produce, regional proximity to tourist markets, popularity with urbanites, word of mouth, local government’s support, and extremely low-priced ac-commodation and village-styled food all contribute to the booming tourism.
  During some good days, 3,000 tourists stay for a night in villag-ers’ homes, which serve as both inns and restaurants.
  Guzhu Village nestles against Mount Guzhu which is 355 meters above sea level. To the east of the village spreads Taihu Lake, the largest freshwater lake in eastern China. What makes the village stand out among Changxing County is that the village is home to Purple Shoot Tea. The tealeaves look like miniaturized bamboo
  
  shoots and the color is purple. In the Tang Dynasty (618-907), the tea came out first in a national competition and became an annual
  tribute to the royal house and government departments in Chang’an. The central government set up a tribute house at the foot of Mount Guzhu to supervise tea production. The 30-room compound served
  as an office/production/storage base. At the most prosperous years,
  more than 30,000 local people were engaged in producing the trib-ute tea and Guzhu sent 9,200 kilograms of Purple Shoot Tea to the
  
  顾渚村全景 A panoramic view of Guzhu Village
  royal house and the government departments. Lu Yu set up his own tea plantation nearby. The scholar wrote Book of Tea, the world’s very first academic book on the plant and beverage. In order to supervise the tea production in Guzhu, more than 20 literati offi-cials who were also famed poets and calligraphers were appointed Huzhou Governor over a long period of time. They visited Mount Guzhu and left some carved inscriptions. Today, the poems of the Tang can still be seen on the cliffs of the mountain. Guzhu is con-sidered the cradle of Chinese tea culture.
  A series of protective development programs has been imple-mented in and around Guzhu Village. Nowadays, some scenic spots around the village and in the mountain attract tourists from afar. The mount itself is a big attraction. The mountaintop provides a commanding vista of mountains, the lake, the bamboo forests, tea plantations, bubbling streams and rural cottages. The Tang Tribute House has been restored.
  The village economy has boomed. Before village tourism started, most houses in Guzhu Village were dilapidated. Nowadays, thatched houses have been replaced by rows of villa-styled struc-tures. Some of these houses are three-storied or four-storied.
  Nowadays, the village boasts 297 household-operated inns/res-taurants with a total of 13,000 beds. The village looks pretty and clean. The streets are clean, houses are surrounded by trees and flowerbeds, decorated with lanterns and wine banners. Concrete walls that used to separate households have been replaced by bam-boo fences and bushes; gardens have pear and peach trees and bam-boos.
  
  All the home inns in the village resemble a hotel: beds, televi-sion, air-conditioner, bathroom, internet hookup, karaoke equip-ment, and poker room. The food is all household dishes in regional style. The charge is standard: 100 yuan per person for meals and bed for two days and one night. These household inns charge an ex-tra 10 yuan for holidays and weekends. The charge is standard and deliberately kept low to maintain competitiveness on the market.
  In the past, the majority of the visitors were old people from cit-ies. Nowadays, the young and the mid-aged people come with fami-lies. They drive in and spend a night there, relaxing and enjoying rural lifestyle for a change. These inn/restaurants are highly profit-able. A good inn/restaurant in the village earns 1.5 million a year.
  The villagers try hard to please visitors by offering a series of
  seasonal village activities such as fishing, digging bamboo shoots,
  picking fruits, making tofu and rice wine and dumpling.
  The villagers attribute the booming tourism project to the sup-porting policies of the local government. Changxing County has launched a series of policies since 2004 to boost local village economies. In 2004, the government offered subsidies and loans to village households and coordinated efforts to boost the develop-ment. In 2007, the county government issued a guideline to regulate the market in the fields of architectural style, land use, environment protection, and food quality. Nowadays, the county government of-fers training courses in cooking, environmental protection, public security, food safety, and service skills. All these favorable policies and measures help boost village tourism. In Changxing County, 70% of the incoming tourists are repeat customers. □
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