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咫尺天涯,遥想北极光在瑞典北部的北极圈内140公里处,有个小城叫基律那,其所在的省份是土著萨米人居住的地区。我们今次的旅行就是去体验他们的生活,并且怀抱着些微的希望去邂逅美丽的北极光。这一季的全球性暖冬,着实让人怀疑我们是否还有机会亲近茫茫的自雪,领略严冬的忧郁和苍凉,也让那些满怀希望去享受冰雪乐趣的人们或多或少地失望了一次。滑雪圣地的气候比常年普遍高出许多,圣诞节去奥地利滑雪的朋友回来说,明年他们准备去更高的山,今年山顶的雪很薄,玩得不过瘾。不过,这样的顾虑在我们踏上基律那的瞬间就溶化了,溶化在满眼满地的厚绒绒的积雪里。从车站往旅馆行进的路途上,我们几乎是穿梭在房子和积雪的迷宫里。沿着被清扫出的人行道爬坡而上,路两边的房子明明近在眼前却无不隔着一道道半人高的白色障碍物,颇有点咫尺天涯的意味。
Close to the End of the World, the Northern Lights are reminiscent of 140 kilometers of the Arctic Circle in northern Sweden. There is a small town called Georna, where the province is home to indigenous Sami inhabitants. Our trip this time is to experience their lives, and embrace the slight hope to encounter the beautiful northern lights. This season’s global warm winters really cast doubt on whether we still have the chance to get close to the vast snow, a sense of winter melancholy and desolation, and more or less disappointment for those who hopefully enjoy the fun of snow and ice. The ski resorts are generally much hotter than usual, and friends returning to skiing on Christmas Day come back saying they’re going to a higher mountain next year. This year the snow on the top of the mountain is thin and enjoyable. However, such concerns dissolved at the moment we set foot to Kiruna, and dissolved in the thick, velvety snow that filled the land. From the station to the hotel on the road, we almost shuttle in the maze of houses and snow. Climbed along the sidewalks being swept up, the houses on either side of the road clearly near the front of them are all separated by a Road, a half-man of high white obstacles, quite a few steps away from the mean.