碟子戏法:看不透的分子美食

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  这种把厨艺与科学结合在一起的“魔术”,要求“魔法师”不单只拥有对食物的热情,还要在研究烹饪过程中以科学的角度解构食材,让食物充分发挥其最大的“味”力!
  
  The One Who Revolutionized Traditional French Cuisine
  传统法国菜的颠覆者
  
  In a kitchen that resembles a laboratory the man some consider the world’s finest chef is taking French menus where none have gone before. This is Marc Veyrat, and this is virtual 3)spaghetti. He creates it without flour or eggs. Instead he uses an intense 4)purée of shallots and watercress.
  Marc Veyrat’s 5)meteoric rise to the top is legendary. Raised on a small 6)alpine farm, his 7)maverick attitude got him kicked out of the top cooking schools, so he taught himself and now is one of only three chefs to receive French cuisine’s highest 8)accolade, three 9)Michelin stars for each of his two restaurants.
  Marc Veyrat: (via translator) What’s fantastic is that by using less animal fat, I develop flavours more fully, using less butter, less cream. All these flavours, these vegetables, are more powerful when you don’t use fat.
  French cuisine is very traditional, very conservative, just like French people. I’ve got the cast of mind which wants to shake things up a bit to show that we can drag French cuisine into the 21st century.
  在形似实验室的厨房里,有一位被某些人视为是世界上顶级厨师的人,正在推出前所未见的法国菜单。这就是马克·维哈,这是仿意大利面。他做面的材料不是面粉或鸡蛋,而是青葱和水田芥浓浆。
  马克·维哈的一蹴而就是个传奇。他在阿尔卑斯山脉上的一个小农场长大,因为特立独行而被顶尖的烹饪学校开除,于是他开始自学。现在他是仅有的获得法国烹饪最高荣誉的三位厨师之一,他的两家餐厅都拥有米其林三星。
  马克·维哈:(通过翻译)最棒的是我少用动物脂肪,我减少使用牛油和奶油,却调制出味道更浓郁的美食。这些菜肴和蔬菜比不用油脂时更有风味。
  法国菜相当传统和保守,就像法国人一样。我却想来点颠覆,证明我们能把法国菜带入21世纪。
  
  First Molecular Gastronomy Chef in America
  美国分子美食第一人
  
  Ruth Reichl(Respected Food Writer): Expect wonders. Food is going to do things that you never imagined. It’s gonna come floating at you, it’s gonna explode, it’s gonna have textures that you didn’t ever think that would be in your mouth.
  Reporter: So it’s not just a 10)gimmick.
  Ruth: It’s not a gimmick. It’s a kind of magic; it’s like a circus of the mouth.
  Reporter: First course; first surprise. A temperature-layered cocktail. It’s great. It’s hot but it’s cold. There’s cold underneath it.
  Jose Andres(Spanish Chef): Already your taste buds are already being excited because they are asking themselves “What’s happening here?”
  Reporter: What’s happening here is molecular gastronomy, a cooking technique that embraces science and technology.
  Ruth: What molecular gastronomy says is “what if we think about deconstructing food, taking the parts of the food, separating them and recombining them in interesting ways?”
  Jose: When I cook, I’m not gonna lie to you, I’m very selfish, me and my team. We need to please ourselves. We need to make sure that we are convinced of what we are doing and eating, and that we…we see ourselves in that dish we are creating. If I don’t please myself, it’s impossible I will be able to please you.
  丝·雷克尔(著名美食作家):准备好大开眼界。食物将会做出让人匪夷所思的事,既会飘浮,又会爆炸……在你的嘴里会有意想不到的口感。
  记者:意思是,那不是噱头?
  露丝:不是的。那是一种魔法,像是嘴里的马戏团。
  记者:第一道菜,第一个惊喜:不同温度层次的鸡尾酒。这真的很棒,既烫又冰;下面是冰的。
  乔斯·安德瑞斯(西班牙厨师):已经刺激到你的味蕾了吧!因为它们在自问,“怎么回事?”
  记者:这就是分子烹饪法—— 一种结合了科学技术的烹饪法。
  露丝:分子烹饪法的意思是,“如果我们解构食物,将食物成分细分,拆开后再以有趣的方式重组,那会怎么样?”
  乔斯:不瞒你说,做菜的时候,我和我的团队都很自私——我们必须取悦自己,我们要对所做的、所吃的菜式有信心,我们得在菜式中看到自己的风格。如果我无法取悦自己,我也不可能取悦你。
  翻译:Sylvia
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