时尚的研究源自哲学。在近代西方的研究谱系中,以黑格尔、马克思、凡勃仑等人的论述为研究端绪。其中,属哲人西美尔的时尚系列理论对后世影响最大。通过比较西美尔的《时尚的哲学》、米尔斯的《白领》、洛夫格伦和弗雷克曼的《美好生活》以及袁仄、胡月的《百年衣裳》这四部较有代表性的作品,发现对时尚的研究虽仍离不开哲学思考,但自现代以来亦出现了新的典范。这既与时尚现象的社会性有关,也折射出不同学术话语的共进融合。社会学、历史人类学的视角让时尚研究更接地气,更富历史厚重感。 Fashionable research comes from philosophy. In the western pedigree of modern times, the thesis is based on the expositions of Hegel, Marx and Veblen. Among them, the philosopher Simmel fashion series theory has the greatest impact on future generations. By comparing Simmel’s Philosophy of Fashion, Mills’s White Collar, Lovegren’s and Freckman’s Good Life, and Yuan Che, Hu’s Four Hundred Years of Clothes He found that although research on fashion is still inseparable from philosophical thinking, new models have emerged since the modern times. This is not only related to the social phenomenon of fashion phenomenon, but also reflects the integration of different academic discourses. From the perspective of sociology and historical anthropology, fashion research is more connected with the atmosphere and rich in history.