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推广了Kirby的有环境水流影响的缓坡方程,得到了综合考虑环境水流(水流因子)、非线性弥散影响(非线性因子)、底摩擦波能损失(底摩擦因子)、非缓坡地形影响(地形因子)、折射、绕射、波浪破碎多种变形因素的波浪传播控制方程,并给出了非线性因子、地形因子、底摩擦因子、水流因子的确定方法。基于导出的方程做进一步推导,得到了波高和波向为变量的综合考虑多种变形因素的波浪传播基本方程,该方程有许多优点:1)其绕开了求解波势函数的困难,将椭圆型方程的边值问题化为初值问题;2)直接求解波高和波向;3)可采用有限差分法离散求解,对空间步长没有限制,适合大面积海区波场计算;4)综合考虑了多种波浪变形因素,方程更为合理,5)容易处理波浪破碎问题。
This paper generalizes Kirby’s gentle slope equation with influence of environmental water flow, and gives comprehensive consideration of environmental water flow (flow factor), nonlinear dispersion effect (nonlinear factor), bottom friction wave energy loss (bottom friction factor), non-gentle slope topography The wave propagation control equation of multiple deformation factors such as refraction, diffraction and wave breaking is given, and the determination methods of nonlinear factor, topographical factor, bottom friction factor and water flow factor are given. Based on the derived equations, the basic wave propagation equation considering wave height and wave direction as variables is derived. The equation has many advantages: 1) It avoids the difficulty of solving wave potential function, 2) directly solve the wave height and wave direction; 3) use the finite difference method to discretize the solution, there is no limitation to the space step, so it is suitable for wave field calculation in large area sea area; 4) A variety of wave deformation factors, the equation is more reasonable, 5) easy to deal with wave breaking problem.