论文部分内容阅读
本文依据前文提出的理论系统讨论倾斜水底上的破碎深度及破碎波高等波浪破碎特性。文中采用了运动学波浪破碎判据并考虑了回流对波浪破碎的影响。考虑到问题的复杂性,引入两个经验参数后所得的最终结果与观测较好地符合。进一步的实验验证与理论研究是必要的。
This article based on the theoretical system proposed in the previous discussion inclined bottom of the broken depth and broken wave higher wave breaking characteristics. In this paper, kinematic wave breaking criterion is adopted and the influence of backflow on wave breaking is considered. Taking into account the complexity of the problem, the final results obtained after the introduction of two empirical parameters are in good agreement with the observations. Further experimental verification and theoretical research are necessary.