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波浪破碎及其湍流混合研究一直是物理海洋学具有挑战性的问题.文章系统综述了自20世纪90年代以来,波浪破碎混合观测及其模式化研究方面取得的主要进展:1)波浪破碎湍流混合不能用经典的海气边界层Wall-layer相似性理论进行描述.波浪破碎能够在近海面几米的深度范围内形成湍流混合的增强层,所产生的湍流动能耗散率εdis是Wall-layer相似性理论预测结果的10—1000倍.2)波浪破碎湍流动能耗散率在波峰区域εdis∝z-2.3,而在波谷以下区域εdis∝exp(-αz)或εdis∝z-2.3)湍流混合长度是刻画波浪破碎混合非常重要的物理量,但迄今为止对波浪破碎湍流混合长度l的量化研究存在较大差异,l从0.1Hs到Hs(Hs为有效波高).如何确定波浪破碎湍流混合长度的定量表示是今后需要亟待解决的重要问题.
Wave crushing and its turbulent mixing research have always been a challenging issue for physical oceanography. The main achievements of this dissertation are summarized as follows: 1) Wave crushing and turbulent mixing Can not be described by the classical Wall-layer similarity theory of sea-air boundary layer.Wavebreaking can form a turbulent mixing enhancement layer within a depth of several meters near the sea surface, and the turbulent kinetic energy dissipation rate εdis is the Wall-layer similarity 10-1000 times the theoretical predictions.2) Turbulent kinetic energy dissipation rate of wave-breaking turbulence is in the region of peak εdisαz-2.3 and in the region below the trough εdisαexp (-αz) or εdisαz-2.3) turbulent mixing length is However, to date, the quantitative study on the mixing length l of wave breaking turbulence has been quite different, from 0.1Hs to Hs (Hs is the effective wave height) How to determine the quantitative representation of mixing length of wave breaking turbulent flow It is an important issue to be solved urgently in the future.