If you let me use one sentence to describe my impression on Lanzhou, I would say all the soul of this city is in one River; the Yellow River, just like Xu Zhimo, a famous modern Chinese poet, said that the soul of Cambridge lay in one river. There is no the city of Lanzhou without the Yellow River. It is the only provincial city through which the Mother River runs. With mountains in the south and north of the city and the Yellow River flowing from the west to the east, Lanzhou is a narrow and long city with both the grand beauty of northern cities and the prettiness of southern cities.
The First Bridge over the Yellow River
On June 4, we got around the Zhongshan Bridge, which is renowned as the First Bridge over the Yellow River. I was so excited since it was the first time for me to see the Yellow River, the mother river of Chinese civilization. Standing by the bridge, I stared at the Yellow River running from afar and couldn’t restrain the surge in my heart. Oh, Yellow River! I saw you! We turned to the north and saw the White Pagoda Park on the hills. The trees were not so green and flourishing as in the southern city but appeared a little dry. My teacher told us that all the vegetation live on the water which is pumped from the Yellow River below. So it was really remarkable to have this park on the hill.
It was said that the upgrading project of the Bridge was just finished on June 1. And the deck was lifted up of 2.5 meters so that the large scale vessel can run through under the bridge and the whole bridge was consolidated. Perhaps it looked no more special than other bridges; however, it had served Lanzhou people for more than 100 years and witnessed the historic ups and downs in the past century.
Before Zhongshan Bridge was built there were many floating bridges over the Yellow River, but only one existed for a relatively long period. This bridge was called Zhen Yuan Floating Bridge and was made up of more than 20 ships, tied up by ropes and chains. It floated on the river in order to help people pass over, but it was neither solid nor safe enough. Almost every year floods destroyed the bridge or even killed people. Problem also arose in the winter, when ice would build up on the river, so the bridge would have to undergo the costly process of being disassembled and then re-built in the spring. Used for over 500 years, the Zhen Yuan Floating Bridges was finally retired in 1909, when an iron bridge was built. This new bridge is what we call the First Bridge over the Yellow River.
In the year 1907, under the proposal of local officers in Lanzhou and Gansu and the help of a Germany businessman, the Qing Government began to build this first iron bridge over the upper reaches of the Yellow River. All materials, even the rivets, were transported from Germany to China using ships, trains, carts and any other means possible. The bridge was completed in two years, and named “Lanzhou Iron Bridge over the Yellow River”. In 1942, to commemorate Dr. Sun Yat-sen, the bridge was





re-named Zhongshan Bridge (Zhongshan is the Chinese name of Dr. Sun Yat-sen).
Now about 10 bridges have already been built nearby. Even more bridges are planned to replace the Zhongshan Bridge’s work, but none can replace its great value in history or its great work over its 80 years. The Zhongshan Bridge will be remembered forever as a piece of history and cultural relics.
White Pagoda Park
Taking photos beside the stele of “the First Bridge over the Yellow River”, we kept on with our tour. Passing across the Zhongshan Bridge, we came to the White Pagoda Park.
Located in the north bank of Yellow River, the White Pagoda Park owes its name to the amazing White Pagoda within it. With images of Buddha on its eight sides, the seven-story pagoda with a height of 17 meters (about 55.8 feet), is a pure white from top to bottom with the exception of the green top which greatly enhances the glamour of the whole building. Located in the north of Lanzhou City, Legend has it that the White Pagoda was built in honor of a well-known Tibetan Lama who died of an illness in Lanzhou when on his way to Mongolia as representative of the leader of Sakyapa in order to meet Genghis Khan, founder of the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368). Unfortunately, the original pagoda later toppled down. The present White Pagoda was constructed by an official in the reign of Emperor Yingzong of the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), and later extended by an imperial inspector in Qing Dynasty (1644-1911).
Bypassing the pagoda and along the shady paths, we came to the Forest of Steles in Lanzhou. Stele by stele, we appreciated the graceful calligraphy and talked about the feature of those arts while strolling in the forest of steles. The Forest of Steles was so quiet, filled with air of calligraphic art. If time permitting, I really hoped to stay there longer and digested those arts one by one heart and soul. It is also a kind of rest and enjoyment for the tired soul.
When we were standing high at the top of the White Pagoda Hill, the panorama of Lanzhou turned up in front of us. The Zhongshan Bridge we just passed, the Yellow River flowing from west to east, the high rises in Lanzhou, as well as the mountain ranges beyond those high buildings all came into our view. It provided us an opportunity to feast our eyes on the magnificent view of White Pagoda Hill with the Zhongshan Bridge at its foot. The way in which the bridge and mountain complement each other to form
picturesque scene has meant that together they have become a symbol of Lanzhou City. It was indeed a“must see” for travelers. How magnificent! Taking the cable car, we flew in the air across the Yellow River, talking and laughing, with the Mosque on Water left farther and farther on the other bank of the River.
Wandering along the Yellow River
The evening of June in Lanzhou was just beyond

comfortable. Dinner finished, we decide to have a walk along the Yellow River. It was wonderful along the Binhe Road along the River. The evening breeze stroke our face and the Yeler ran silently in the dark. A line of landscape light attracted us. It was actually a long and ragon lantern. We talked about the strange shape of the dragon while on the other hand med its length. However, admittedly, it was not a usual scene! We had planned to go down ly to the very bank of the River, but misled ourselves to a beer square, where we felt a little tful that we had finished the supper, otherwise, what would be enjoyment to drink beer over snacks on the bank of the Yellow River in the early summer evening.
The morning of June in Lanzhou was also cozy beyond description especially along the er. The area otherwise called as Binhe Park is the newly constructed waterfront scenic area. uns from the Yantan Old Bridge in the east to the Xiuchuan and Hetan in the west, over 20 ometers long.
I was told that on July 3 the First Lanzhou Marathon would be held along the Binhe oad. It was exciting news for me, a long running lover. However, it was also a pity as I nearly uld be sure that I would not have time to participate. So I decided to run ahead.
I spent two mornings running from the Yantan Bridge in the east of Lanzhou to Qilihe idge along the Binhe Road. The Binhe Road on the morning is very quiet, just with a few ople jogging along. The road is wide and straight, with flower-beds and grass-lawns decoted on both sides, just like “the Greenery Corridor”. I didn’t run along the Binhe Road, but ent further to the path near the very bank of the Yellow River. So on one of my sides was the een Binhe Road, while on the other side silently flew the Yellow River in the twilight. Not r across the River stretched the mountain ranges. The long and soft willow branches swung ong the very bank near me; the quiet reed thicket in the very riverside was waken by the rds’ ringing song; over the small green islands, said to be called Lover Island, in the middle ver flew back and forth of the water birds. When I ran passing by the famous sculpture med the Mother Yellow River, the sun had already shone bright on the sculpture and the mmer waves in the river danced to the sunshine. And when I turned back, I just found I had passed the huge Waterwheel, where I really had wanted to have a cup of eight auspicious tea quietly there if time permitting. For the first morning I stopped my running at the Zhongshan Bridge where we just toured around the day before.
On June 5, which happened to be Dragon Boat Festival, it was very bright that day. The sky was crystal and blue, just with a few furry clouds floating there. I went on with my running till I arrived at the Qilihe Bridge. On my way, I came across people who held willow branches for this Festival. And I helped to take photos for two boys. They were very glad and lent their willow branches to me and took photos for me. So I had a picture with willow branches in my arms and with my fond bridge behind me.
I liked the different bridges which I ran passing by: the modern eye-catching Yantan Bridge, the simple and unadorned Chengguan Bridge, the old and tasteful Zhongshan Bridge, the magnificent Small West Lake Bridge, and the poetic blue Qilihe Bridge.
I liked the beach volleyball court. What would be enjoyment to play the beach volleyall along the bank of Yellow River.
I liked seeing the old grandpas and grandmas do exercise on the small riverside square, playing Tai Chi, dancing to the soft music or just stretching their arms and legs. How peaceful and joyful they were!
Acts always make longer and deeper memory rather than words. People may forget the words they said long ago but would always remember the scenes in which they were doing something. With a special feeling I measured this city with my feet to make the memory. Years after when I recall I know that was Lanzhou and




that was me then.
For a running lover like me running along the Yellow River in Lanzhou could be an exciting experience. However, if time permitting, I really also wanted to try the sheepskin raft drifting, which must be more exciting. It is said sheepskin raft is a unique transportation tool in Huanghe River with a history of approximately 2000 years. Boatmen blow a whole sheepskin or cow skin to form a huge air bag, and tie over ten such bags to a quadrate wooden shelf. Then it can drift with the buoyancy provided by the airbags. The locals told me that a typical sheepskin raft drifting journey in Lanzhou was from the Sculpture of Mother Yellow River to the Zhongshan Bridge.
Joyous trip to Xinglong Mountain
Our return train was going to leave Lanzhou around 5 o’clock in the afternoon. There was nearly one day for us to stay in Lanzhou. “I want to climb the Xinglong Mountain, which is located in Lanzhou’s one suburban county, Yuzhong County. It is a 4 star national scenery spot and is renowned as No.1 Mountain in West Gansu, and just 60 km from the downtown Lanzhou. Not far. Time is enough. I really want to see what is it like, otherwise it is pity for a mountain climbing enthusiast like me not to see the local famous mountain while staying in Lanzhou,” I told my friend. So we took a taxi to Xinglong Mountain in Yuzhou County.
When we stepped out of the cab, we only found it was far more comfortable than downtown Lanzhou. The flourishing green full of mountains made sharp contrast to the brown barren mountains on the trip from downtown Lanzhou to here. It is simply southern China, and turns up little drought signs like other places in the area. The sky was clear and blue; the furry cloud was light and white; the breeze was cool and soft; and the mountains were green and graceful. It was really a different world from the surrounding areas. Maybe nothing was worth noting if it was located in southern China, however, in northwestern China, especially in the drought area, when you see such a place, you could not help your praising. “It is indeed a treasury land in Lanzhou. I feel so good seeing such mellow green mountains in this area! Luckily we came！” “Yes, really a good place！”
According to the brief introduction along the path, I learned that there are two main peaks, the eastern peak and the western one. The eastern peak, Xinlong, is reaching for 2400 meters above the sea level while the western one, Qiyun, with an elevation of 2500 meters. Between the two peaks is the Xinglong Canyon, across which standing the Cloud Dragon Bridge. Now there are also cable cars flying between the two peaks. Xinglong Mountain is a famous Taoism and Buddhism Mountain and there are about 70 ancient temples and 24 scenic spots scattered all over the mountain such as Temple of Guanyu, Two Immortal Terrace, Taibai Spring, Budhha Hall, Pine Pavilion and Droping Tears Pavilion etc. It is said that as early as in Western Zhou Dynasty (about 1029 BC—771BC) Taoists had already practiced Taoism.
Since then, all the dynasties down the thousands of years have witnessed the religion spread on this mountain and the vicissitude of grass and trees. Till 1227 AD when the legendary Genghis Khan died from disease at Xinglong Mountain and his clothes and arms was buried here. This added more color of legend to this mountain.
On our way to the top, we feasted our eyes with the natural beauty and took some photos for memory. In one court, owing to the cool weather on the mountain, the peony was just blooming, bright and pretty. It was indeed a surprise for the flower lovers like me to see the peony in June when they have already withered in other places.“So it looks that this mountain is really a summer resort!” I said to my friend. We also visited the temples to experience the religion atmosphere from time to time. I didn’t remember how many temples we had visited. For me the most impressive was still the Genghis Khan Memorial Hall which homes the Khan’s cenotaph. It seemed to bring me back to the unprecedented Yuan Dynasty and I seemed to see the matchless Khan on the battlefield.
At the Xinglong Peak, looking at the blue sky, white cloud, green mountains and enjoy the cool and soft breeze, it was amazing!
Time limited, we didn’t have time to take the cable from the eastern peak to the western peak. However we played swing and shot the balloons just like children. It made me think of my childhood. In a cheerful and easy mood we bid farewell to the Mountain.