日本筑地市场的拍卖盛况

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  The fishing industry in Japan is among the largest in the world, and Tsukiji Market is a major 1)hub for this multi-billion-dollar industry. Over the years, the market has attracted millions of tourists, even though it is not primarily a tourist center.
  Tourist: It’s funny because it doesn’t seems [sic] like there is a lot of fight between the 2)bidders. Only one or two people, they raise the price. And that’s it. It goes really fast.
  He’s referring to the star attraction at the market, a fascinating event that takes place, without fail, at 5:30 every morning, an event for which visitors wake up at 4:00 am. The location—the auction hall. Tsukiji market has seven auction halls and five tuna auction halls that conduct the business of selling its produce to the intermediate 3)wholesalers. This area is the heart of the market and everything would 4)grind to a halt if the auction didn’t take place. The experience of being inside the hall is something tourists take back with them as one of the most amazing and unforgettable memories of Japan. Not surprisingly, some have even compared the sights and sounds to a kind of visual symphony that catches the essence of Japanese culture and social life.
  The economics of the morning’s auction at Tsukiji Market determine the economics of the business for the rest of the country, and for the world, in terms of demand, supply and price. So when the price of your regular piece of sushi goes up, it’s because the price has gone up in these auction halls.
  The magic hour at the market is 5:30 am. So at 10:00 pm the night before, tons of seafood, particularly frozen tuna, start arriving by ship, truck and plane from all over the world. By 3:00 am, the crates will be opened and the seafood displayed in the auction for the intermediate wholesalers. Every morning, six separate auctions for fish are held at the same time in order to clear the tremendous amount of stock. The tuna auction is the most exciting of all, not just because of the sheer speed at which it takes place, but because of the high value and risks involved in the bidding process.
  This is a typical morning at the tuna auction hall. About a thousand tuna from all over the world are lined up. At 5:30 5)sharp, the auction starts on all five platforms. This is the 6)auctioneer, and these are the buyers, the intermediate wholesalers. They use hand signs to indicate the price per kilo. The tuna will go to the highest bidder. It takes an average of six seconds to auction one tuna. The interaction between the auctioneer and buyers in such a short time has always been a fascinating talking point among observers.   The auction starts. And it’s done. Let’s take another look. Ten is the number given to the tuna. The auctioneer invites buyers to name the price. He calls out the price indicated by the buyer’s hand sign. Thumb up means six, open palm means five. The auctioneer has to read many people’s signs at once. Seeing that it won’t go beyond 8,500, the auctioneer calls out the buyer’s company name, and the auction ends.
  The auction started at 5:30, and is over in less than 20 minutes. In a mere 20 minutes, 1,000 pieces of tuna fish are sold and gone. This speed, this scale, is what makes Tsukiji Market one of the most fascinating places to visit in the world.
  日本的渔业规模之大是全世界数一数二的,而筑地市场正是这个数十亿美元产业的重要枢纽。多年来,即使市场本来并不是一个旅游景点,它仍吸引着数百万游客前来参观。
  游客:很有趣,因为竞价者之间的竞投并不多,只有一两个人叫价,就是这样,这个过程进行得很快。


  这位游客所讲的正是市场最受欢迎的场景,这引人入胜的一幕风雨不改,每天早晨五点半上演。游客为了目睹这场景,甘愿在清晨四点就起床。它在筑地市场的拍卖场上演。筑地市场共有七个拍卖场和五个金枪鱼拍卖场,中间批发商会在拍卖场互相竞投出价,买下看中的产品。拍卖场是市场的心脏,如果没有进行拍卖,那么所有的营业活动都无法继续下去。在拍卖场的所见所闻令游客们大开眼界,更是到日本旅游最难忘的经历之一。一些游客甚至将拍卖场的热闹景况比喻为一曲看得见的交响乐,它将日本文化和社会生活的精髓表露无遗。
  筑地市场清晨拍卖的情况对全国乃至全球海鲜产业的供求及价格有决定性的影响。如果你去吃寿司的时候发现价格比平常贵,这是因为筑地市场的清晨拍卖价有所上升。
  筑地市场最重要的活动在清晨五点半上演。在前一晚的十点,船只、货车和飞机会把来自世界各地数以吨计的海产陆续运到市场,冷冻金枪鱼是其中的重头戏。凌晨三点便会拆箱,各种海产陈列在拍卖场内,供中间批发商挑选。每天早上会有六场拍卖同时举行,以便在短时间里卖完大量的渔获。在多场拍卖中,以金枪鱼的拍卖最为紧张刺激,这不仅是因为交易过程快得惊人,也因为拍卖的货品价格非常高,涉及很高的风险。
  今早,金枪鱼拍卖场跟平时一样,来自世界各地的约千条金枪鱼整齐地排在地上。五点三十分,拍卖活动在五个拍卖台准时开始。这位就是拍卖官,这些中间批发商们是买家,他们会以手势来表示每公斤的价钱,价高者得。拍卖一条金枪鱼平均只需要六秒,拍卖官和买家在这短短数秒间的互动常使观看者惊叹不已,纷纷谈论。
  拍卖开始。拍卖结束。大家再看一次。“十”是金枪鱼的号码。拍卖官请买家出价,他会大声念出买家手势所表示的价钱。竖起大拇指代表六,张开手掌代表五。拍卖官必须一眼看到多个买家的手势。见没有人出价高过8500日元,拍卖官叫出买家公司的名字,拍卖便完成了。
  拍卖会在五点半开始,不到二十分钟便结束。短短二十分钟之内,上千条金枪鱼已经卖出,并且送走。这样的速度,这样的规模,让筑地市场成为全球最吸引人的场所之一。


  背景小知识
  日本筑地市场
  筑地市场是位于东京都中央区筑地的公营批发市场,由东京都政府管理,是日本最大的鱼类市场,也是世界最大的鱼类市场之一。筑地市场由江户时代日本桥的河岸市场发展而来,现面积约为23万平方米,有784个鱼类批发商的摊档。筑地市场的顾客主要是行内的专业人士,例如寿司师傅、餐厅老板、超市买手等,普通的家庭主妇和顾客很少来这里购物。
  每天清晨的金枪鱼拍卖会是筑地市场的核心活动。只有获东京都政府发牌的中间批发商才能参加拍卖会,持牌的中间批发商大约有250个。拍卖会上进行的交易涉及价值高达几万到几十万美元,经常会有天价大鱼拍出。2013年1月5日,一条重222千克的青森县大间产蓝鳍金枪鱼以1.55亿日元(约合人民币1100万元)的天价成交,创下了自1999年开始统计以来的最高价。筑地市场虽然不是专门的旅游景点,但前来参观的游客络绎不绝,对市场的运营造成了不小的干扰,因此东京都政府在2008年4月1日开始限制市场内的游客人数。如今,旅客只能分成小批,在指定的时间进入指定的场区参观。
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