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当你作为外邦人来到一个全新的国度,能让你感到最为兴奋的便是碰触那个国度里最为民生的部分:小景点、繁忙的交通、做运动的老人家、使着各种招揽伎俩的小贩……你见到的一切都那么真实,每个人都在努力地生活着,不知不觉中,你已深深地为这个纯朴而真实的国度所吸引……
Halfway up the steep climb to the top of Jingshan hill, I am overtaken by a 1)wiry 2)octogenarian. The narrow steps do not seem to concern him, neither does the dusty summer heat. In China, you soon get used to elderly people being far more energetic than you. I watch his slim brown legs patter up the steps ahead. Below me, through the cover of 3)cypress trees, Beijing traffic honks and swerves on. If I were to turn around I would probably be able to see it far below, a glittering line. China’s newest Great Wall is one made of traffic, and snakes through most cities in the country.
I reach the top and make for the temple on the apex of the hill. The crowds are thinner here, and it’s possible to catch your breath and look down on the city. Nobody had advertised this park’s presence. Earlier, when I emerged from the Forbidden City, I dived towards this towering hill to escape the cries of 4)peddlers 5)lying in wait. “6)Rickshaw? Taxi? Good price!”
Now, on top of the world, the air is clearer and the scream of Beijing’s busy roads and street stalls muted. From the 7)pagoda’s shade, the whole of Beijing falls out from under you and away. Houses and 8)pavilion roofs slope away and the lakes of Beihai Park glitter. Below, the Forbidden City unfolds, its red tiles bright in the heat. Jingshan Park is not the most beautiful green space in Beijing, but it does offer that fascinating Chinese contradiction of old and new.
A giant man-made construction, using earth excavated from the Forbidden City’s 9)moat in the Ming Dynasty, it speaks to the 10)sheer manpower on which so much of China’s greatness has been built. It is a good place to reflect on the country’s past, and wonder about its future. At the base of the hill, people laze in the Sunday heat. This park is a favourite for couples and elderly people, who play music and practise kuai ban under the trees. Feeling wistful, I have just decided to go and join them when the old man who passed me on the hill 11)sidles up. He smiles slyly. In his arms, I am horrified to see, he clasps a 12)gaudy imperial robe—and is that a ceremonial wig in his hand? “Photo?” he says.“Full emperor gear. Nice view. Good price.”
我步履维艰地往景山山顶攀爬。在半山腰,我被一位硬朗的八旬老人赶上了。那些狭窄的阶梯和灰蒙蒙的暑热天气似乎没对他造成任何影响。在中国,你很快就会习惯见到老年人比你还要有活力。我看着他黄棕色的细腿“啪嗒啪嗒”地踏上前方的台阶。从我的下方,透过柏树林,传来了北京车流中的鸣笛声和急转弯声。假使我转过身,我很可能看得到远处下方的车流,一道闪闪发光的车流。中国的新长城由交通组成,在全国大多数城市,车流蜿蜒缓挪着。
我登上顶峰,而后走向山顶上的那座寺庙。山顶人烟稀少些,我还可以喘口气儿,俯瞰一下这座城。从未有人介绍过这公园。今天早些时候,我在故宫里稍作停留后,就冲向了这座高耸的小山,以避开虎视眈眈的小贩们的吆喝。“黄包车?出租车?算你一个好价钱!”
当下,在世界之巅,空气更加清新,北京繁忙的马路和街道上的喧嚣暂入一片寂静。在宝塔的阴影里,整座北京城在你的脚下铺展开来而后消失。房屋和亭顶交错延展,北海公园的湖面上闪着波光,山下的故宫在你眼前尽显,故宫里红色的瓦片在热气之中越发光亮。景山公园算不上是北京最美的绿地空间,但它的的确确能让你领略到中国新旧之间的迷人反差。
景山是一座巨大的人工建筑,明朝年间由从故宫护城河中挖出的泥土堆积而成。中国有太多浩瀚的工程纯粹由人力建成,景山公园就证明了这点。这儿是一个反思中国历史和展望其未来的好地方。景山脚下,人们在星期天的酷热中闲逛。这个公园是夫妇们和老年人的最爱,他们会在树荫下奏乐、练快板儿。我觉得不大过瘾,刚决定去加入他们的时候,之前爬山赶超我的那位老人悄悄走近我。他诡异地笑着。在他怀里,我惶恐地看到,他正抱着一套艳俗的龙袍——而他手里拿着的是不是一顶仪式用的假发啊?“要拍照吗?”他说道。“全套的皇帝行头。漂亮的风景。算你一个好价钱。”
北京之巅
——景山
景山公园位于故宫(Forbidden City)北面,地处北京城的中轴线(axle wire)上,占地23公顷。南与故宫的神武门(Gate of Godly Prowess)隔街相望,西邻北海公园。景山公园为元、明、清三代的御苑(Royal Court),高42.6米,海拔88.35米,是北京城的最高点。站在山顶可俯视全城,金碧辉煌的古老故宫与现代化的北京城新貌尽收眼底。文中提及的那座寺庙,便是景山东侧的护国忠义庙,别名关帝庙(Guandi Temple),是为了供奉三国时期蜀国的大将关羽而兴建的。
Halfway up the steep climb to the top of Jingshan hill, I am overtaken by a 1)wiry 2)octogenarian. The narrow steps do not seem to concern him, neither does the dusty summer heat. In China, you soon get used to elderly people being far more energetic than you. I watch his slim brown legs patter up the steps ahead. Below me, through the cover of 3)cypress trees, Beijing traffic honks and swerves on. If I were to turn around I would probably be able to see it far below, a glittering line. China’s newest Great Wall is one made of traffic, and snakes through most cities in the country.
I reach the top and make for the temple on the apex of the hill. The crowds are thinner here, and it’s possible to catch your breath and look down on the city. Nobody had advertised this park’s presence. Earlier, when I emerged from the Forbidden City, I dived towards this towering hill to escape the cries of 4)peddlers 5)lying in wait. “6)Rickshaw? Taxi? Good price!”
Now, on top of the world, the air is clearer and the scream of Beijing’s busy roads and street stalls muted. From the 7)pagoda’s shade, the whole of Beijing falls out from under you and away. Houses and 8)pavilion roofs slope away and the lakes of Beihai Park glitter. Below, the Forbidden City unfolds, its red tiles bright in the heat. Jingshan Park is not the most beautiful green space in Beijing, but it does offer that fascinating Chinese contradiction of old and new.
A giant man-made construction, using earth excavated from the Forbidden City’s 9)moat in the Ming Dynasty, it speaks to the 10)sheer manpower on which so much of China’s greatness has been built. It is a good place to reflect on the country’s past, and wonder about its future. At the base of the hill, people laze in the Sunday heat. This park is a favourite for couples and elderly people, who play music and practise kuai ban under the trees. Feeling wistful, I have just decided to go and join them when the old man who passed me on the hill 11)sidles up. He smiles slyly. In his arms, I am horrified to see, he clasps a 12)gaudy imperial robe—and is that a ceremonial wig in his hand? “Photo?” he says.“Full emperor gear. Nice view. Good price.”
我步履维艰地往景山山顶攀爬。在半山腰,我被一位硬朗的八旬老人赶上了。那些狭窄的阶梯和灰蒙蒙的暑热天气似乎没对他造成任何影响。在中国,你很快就会习惯见到老年人比你还要有活力。我看着他黄棕色的细腿“啪嗒啪嗒”地踏上前方的台阶。从我的下方,透过柏树林,传来了北京车流中的鸣笛声和急转弯声。假使我转过身,我很可能看得到远处下方的车流,一道闪闪发光的车流。中国的新长城由交通组成,在全国大多数城市,车流蜿蜒缓挪着。
我登上顶峰,而后走向山顶上的那座寺庙。山顶人烟稀少些,我还可以喘口气儿,俯瞰一下这座城。从未有人介绍过这公园。今天早些时候,我在故宫里稍作停留后,就冲向了这座高耸的小山,以避开虎视眈眈的小贩们的吆喝。“黄包车?出租车?算你一个好价钱!”
当下,在世界之巅,空气更加清新,北京繁忙的马路和街道上的喧嚣暂入一片寂静。在宝塔的阴影里,整座北京城在你的脚下铺展开来而后消失。房屋和亭顶交错延展,北海公园的湖面上闪着波光,山下的故宫在你眼前尽显,故宫里红色的瓦片在热气之中越发光亮。景山公园算不上是北京最美的绿地空间,但它的的确确能让你领略到中国新旧之间的迷人反差。
景山是一座巨大的人工建筑,明朝年间由从故宫护城河中挖出的泥土堆积而成。中国有太多浩瀚的工程纯粹由人力建成,景山公园就证明了这点。这儿是一个反思中国历史和展望其未来的好地方。景山脚下,人们在星期天的酷热中闲逛。这个公园是夫妇们和老年人的最爱,他们会在树荫下奏乐、练快板儿。我觉得不大过瘾,刚决定去加入他们的时候,之前爬山赶超我的那位老人悄悄走近我。他诡异地笑着。在他怀里,我惶恐地看到,他正抱着一套艳俗的龙袍——而他手里拿着的是不是一顶仪式用的假发啊?“要拍照吗?”他说道。“全套的皇帝行头。漂亮的风景。算你一个好价钱。”
北京之巅
——景山
景山公园位于故宫(Forbidden City)北面,地处北京城的中轴线(axle wire)上,占地23公顷。南与故宫的神武门(Gate of Godly Prowess)隔街相望,西邻北海公园。景山公园为元、明、清三代的御苑(Royal Court),高42.6米,海拔88.35米,是北京城的最高点。站在山顶可俯视全城,金碧辉煌的古老故宫与现代化的北京城新貌尽收眼底。文中提及的那座寺庙,便是景山东侧的护国忠义庙,别名关帝庙(Guandi Temple),是为了供奉三国时期蜀国的大将关羽而兴建的。