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巴罗洛是意大利皮埃蒙特的一座小村庄，也是意大利最棒的葡萄酒产区之一，被誉为“酒王”的巴罗洛葡萄酒便产自这里。丰富的口感、桀骜不驯的个性，造就了巴罗洛葡萄酒的王者风范。
Barolo is a small town in the Piedmont region in Italy. As one of the best wine regions of Italy， Barolo is known for making the world’s richest and most unyielding wines.
Tips
巴罗洛风格分两种
巴罗洛酒漫长的酿造周期不仅增加了生产成本，也减缓了全球市场对巴罗洛酒的接受热情。所以在上世纪后期，巴罗洛出现了一批“革新派”酒厂，他们尝试着酿造新风格的巴罗洛酒。这些新巴罗洛的单宁被减弱，果香味更丰富，而且需要尽快饮用，最佳饮用期为出厂后2年至5年。所以在巴罗洛，存在着新、旧两种风格的葡萄酒。选购巴罗洛酒时，应该先确定自己想买哪一种风格的酒，然后再咨询酒商产品是“革新派”还是“传统派”的。
Tradition v.s. Modern Styles
As the traditional styles of Barolo wine making is too slow and costly. In the late 20th century， a group of reformative Barolo producers started making more modern， international styles of Barolos that are fruitier， less tannic， and drink best after 2 to 5 years. Before you select a Barolo， remember to decide on your preferred style before contacting wineries.
在40年前，如果有人说一个意大利葡萄酒产区能够与法国顶级产区平起平坐，那就像今天说中国队将与西班牙争夺2014世界杯冠军一样，纯属无聊的冷笑话。上世纪70年代，就连意大利美食家伊丽莎白·大卫（Elizabeth David）也在自己的书中识趣地建议读者：品尝意大利酒时要抱着“乐观和友善的探索精神，而不是苛刻地拿它与法国酒作比较。”
那时所有人都知道意大利酒上不了台面，但在产量上这个国家却一直是世界第一。意大利人太热爱葡萄酒了，他们每天大口吞咽着同样的葡萄酒，而且是没有牌子的。餐厅里很少能见到酒单，通常只有老板简单的一句：“红的，还是白的？”简而言之，那时的意大利酒重量不重质，而且口感比较粗糙。
到了70年代后期，一些离经叛道的改革者开始带头改造意大利葡萄酒。这场革命一直持续了十多年，一些富有特色的意大利产区开始在全球崭露头角，并且渐渐与法国顶级产区并驾齐驱。在这些崛起的产区中，皮埃蒙特的巴罗洛村就是其中最杰出的代表，那里被认为能酿造出意大利最好、最具个性的葡萄酒。而在全世界品酒家的眼中，巴罗洛葡萄酒也是最桀骜不驯的佳酿。
40 years ago， if someone told you that an Italian wine region could compete with top French wine regions， you would react as if someone tells you now that China will compete with Spain in the 2014 World Cup final. In the 1963 edition of her book Food， Italian sommelier Elizabeth David advised readers to approach Italian wine "in a spirit of optimism and amiable inquiry， rather than with harsh comparisons to the wines of France.”
Despite the lack of reputation， Italy has always been the world’s largest wine producer. The Italians love wines and drink wines every day， although most of them of not branded. If you went to an Italian restaurant back them， you would be offered the choice of “red or white？” In those days， Italians focus more on quantity than quality.
In the late 70s， some unorthodox reformers started to reform Italian wines. After over 10 years， some wine regions carrying unique Italian characteristics gradually rose to international fame and caught up with top French wine regions. Barolo is one of best. In the eyes of sommeliers， Barolo produces the world’s most unyielding wines. “王者之酒”沉浮记
虽然巴罗洛的葡萄酒最近几十年才享誉全球，但它却有过辉煌的历史。早在中世纪，巴罗洛葡萄酒就有“酒中之王、王者之酒”的声誉，曾受到萨鲁佐女侯爵、萨丁尼亚王子、教皇约翰·保罗二世的喜爱，甚至是路易十四餐桌上的常客。不过随着法国葡萄酒的崛起，巴罗洛在随后几个世纪里逐渐遭到冷落。
“葡萄酒之王”为何也会被人遗忘？美国葡萄酒专家爱德华·斯坦伯格（Edward Steinberg）曾如此回答过：“葡萄酒就像食物，若风味太特别，就很难广受欢迎。这就是顶级巴罗洛葡萄酒的困境。”巴罗洛葡萄酒的口感太浓烈、太深沉，需要储存太久的年头才能喝。
直到1976年，美国人梅纳·埃莫林（Maynard Amerine）还在其著作《葡萄酒：感官评鉴》这样写道：“巴罗洛不管新酒还是老酒，尝起来都很苦涩。即使经过15到20年的窖藏，也无法酝酿出极佳的香气。”当时的美国人正在对拉菲、玛歌等波尔多名庄酒疯狂崇拜，他们耐不住性子去慢慢品味陈年的巴罗洛葡萄酒。
到上世纪八、九十年代，巴罗洛葡萄酒才渐渐被全世界所接受。不过此时的接受并非无条件的。在许多世界级品鉴会上，酒评人们一边给予陈年巴罗洛葡萄酒“丰富” “强烈” “令人印象深刻”等好评，一边又会说它“奇怪” “对喝惯波尔多葡萄酒的人来说显得很特异”。可在真正欣赏巴罗洛葡萄酒的人看来，巴罗洛与波尔多，就像高尔夫和足球，真正能欣赏前者的毕竟是少数人。
到上世纪90年代后期，巴罗洛开始重新占据它“王者之酒”的地位，开始和波尔多等世界顶级酒庄并驾齐驱。越来越多品醇客对巴罗洛陈放数十年之后绽放出的奇特香气着迷，巴罗洛美学渐渐开始征服世界。
Rise and Fall
Although only rise to fame in the recent decades， Barolo wines had a glorious history. In the Middle Ages， Barolo wines had been called the “king of wines” and was favored by people like Marquess Saluzzo， Princess Sardegna， Pope John Paul II， even Louis XIV. But with the rise of French wine， Barolo wines lost favor in the following centuries.
The reason， as explained by American wine expert Edward Steinberg is that， “Like foods， however， wines can be too distinctive to be universally appealing， Such was the predicament of great Barolo wines.” Barolo wines are too tannic that it takes years of aging to create a good taste.
As late as in 1976， Maynard Amerine wrote in his book， Wines： Their Sensory Evaluation， that “Barolo appears most often bitter astringent when young and also when old. Even at fifteen to twenty years， the aging does not produce an outstanding bouquet. ” The Americans at that time were too crazy about bordeaux wineries including Laffe and Chateau Margaux to spare time for Barolo wines.
In the 1980s and 90s， Barolo wines finally reclaimed worldwide reputation. But that does not come easily. At international wine tastings， sommeliers praised aging Barolo wines as “rich”， “strong”， and “impressive” but also claimed that they are “strange”， and “weird for people used to Bordeaux wines.” But for Barolo wine aficionados， Barolo is to Bordeaux as golf is to soccer. Only a very few could appreciate its true flavor.
In late 1990s， Barolo wines regained its title as “king of wines”， attracting more and more wine lovers to its aroma out of decades of aging.
赛乐图
赛乐图（Ceretto）酒庄是一座由三代人经营，超过70多年历史的家族精品酒庄，其中最具代表性的就是碧高石头园巴罗洛葡萄酒（BAROLO BRICCO ROCCH）。这款酒酒体复杂而优雅，口感平衡，有宜人的甜美黑色樱桃果味，还有玫瑰花香，橡木香。一经推出即获得众多好评。 Ceretto
Ceretto is family owned winery that has been passed down for three generations over 70 years. Barolo Bricco Rocch is one of its renowned products. With balanced taste， rich texture， and sweet cherry， rose and oak aromas， the wine became an instant hit when first introduced to the Market.
纳比奥罗的美学
巴罗洛的葡萄酒美学究竟是什么？
任何一位专业品酒师都知道，巴罗洛葡萄酒是全世界口感最强劲、含糖量最少的葡萄酒。强烈的单宁令新酿造的巴罗洛葡萄酒口感极其干涩，它们需要陈化至少30年，等酒体柔化后才能称为“真正的巴罗洛酒”。然而一旦你尝过陈化好的巴罗洛葡萄酒，马上会认识到这种酒的伟大与尊贵。陈年的巴罗洛葡萄酒散发着紫罗兰、玫瑰、甘草、胡椒类香料、松露、皮革、烟草等芳香，漫长岁月塑造的风格是其他任何名酒都无法模仿的。
巴罗洛葡萄酒之所以有这种独特的魅力，很大程度是因为当地唯一的葡萄品种——纳比奥罗（Nebbiolo）。这是一种只产于意大利西北部、非常特别的葡萄品种。意大利葡萄酒传奇人物、嘉雅酒庄庄主安吉罗·嘉雅（Angelo Gaja）曾这样形容纳比奥罗：“赤霞珠（波尔多名品葡萄品种）就像美国电影明星约翰·韦恩（John Wayne）。当约翰·韦恩进入房间，他站在中间，非常平易近人，他很容易被见到。纳比奥罗则像意大利电影明星马塞罗·马斯托依安尼（Marcello Mastroianni），他会走到房间的角落，如果你想认识他，你必须去接近他。”
这个比喻实在太贴切了，它恰好说明了为什么巴罗洛酒需要人们慢慢去发觉、接受，而波尔多葡萄酒总能第一时间打动你，后者显得光芒四射，前者则更加深邃迷人。
不过，纳比奥罗是一种非常难以驾驭的葡萄。它不仅需要适宜的土壤，还需要精益求精的酿造技艺，以及在酒窖里漫长的保存时间。由于这些苛刻的要求，使得巴罗洛产区每年只出产2000到3000箱葡萄酒，这样的产量类似于法国勃艮第产区（以出产小产量、高品质葡萄酒著称，其顶级产品比拉菲等波尔多列级名庄酒贵上十多倍）。正因如此，巴罗洛葡萄酒普遍都很昂贵。一瓶好的巴罗洛葡萄酒，当地价格至少要50欧元，而且售价还随着陈年时间的增加而上涨。顶级巴罗洛葡萄酒更是步入奢侈品的行列。
Nebbiola， The Aesthetics of Barolo Wines
Barolo wines are the world’s most tannic and least sweet wines. They are very rich on tannin and could take more than 30 years for the wine to soften up and become ready for you to appreciate the greatness of “true Barolo wines”. Long years of aging endows Barolo wines unique aromas ranging from licorice， violet， spice， truffle， leather， to tabacco.
The unique features are attributable to the only grape in the Piedmont region， Nebbiolo. Nebbiolo is a variety of grape unique to the northwest of Italy. Angelo Gaja， legendary owner of Gaja Winery once said： “Cabernet is to John Wayne， as Nebbiolo is to Marcello Mastroianni. When John Wayne enters the room， he stands in the center of the room and cannot help but be noticed. Nebbiolo is like Marcello Mastroianni： he enters the room and stands quietly in the corner， waiting for you to approach him.”
This explains why bordeaux wines could impress you at first contact， while Barolo wines takes time to be appreciated and accepted. Bordeaux wines are more glamorous， Barolo wines are more sophisticated and charming.
But Nebbiolo is a vine most elusive and difficult to master. It is notoriously demanding on soil， brewing techniques， and aging time. Barolo only produces 2000 to 3000 cases of wine each year， equivalent to the production of top Burgundy wineries （known for small production， high quality wines， the best of which are ten times expensive than Laffe and other bordeaux wines） and similarly expensive. A good Barolo costs at least 50 euros locally， and the price goes up as it ages. Top Barolo wines are considered by many as luxury goods.
最传统的巴罗洛坚守者们依然有着自己的骄傲与坚持。作为“传统派”巴罗洛代表的佳科莫·孔诺酒庄（Giacomo Conterno Cascina Francia）的历史可以追溯到18世纪。在近一个多世纪里，佳科莫·孔诺恪守传统，并遵循着巴罗洛的格言：一瓶好的巴罗洛葡萄酒在刚刚装瓶时应该令人难以入口，但在20、30、40年后，它会演变成一款伟大的酒。尤其是佳科莫蒙菲特巴罗洛珍藏酒款，只在特殊年份生产，普通的巴罗洛亦不是每年都会生产。
Giacomo Conterno Cascina Francia
Since its establishment in the 18th century， Giacomo Conterno Cascina Francia has been following the traditional style of wine making， believing in the Barolo maxim that “a good Barolo may be too astringent to drink when it is bottled， but after 20， 30， or 40 years， it will become a great wine.” Giacomo Monfortino Barolo for example are made only in selected years. Of course， most Barolo wines are not produced every year.
Barolo is a small town in the Piedmont region in Italy. As one of the best wine regions of Italy， Barolo is known for making the world’s richest and most unyielding wines.
Tips
巴罗洛风格分两种
巴罗洛酒漫长的酿造周期不仅增加了生产成本，也减缓了全球市场对巴罗洛酒的接受热情。所以在上世纪后期，巴罗洛出现了一批“革新派”酒厂，他们尝试着酿造新风格的巴罗洛酒。这些新巴罗洛的单宁被减弱，果香味更丰富，而且需要尽快饮用，最佳饮用期为出厂后2年至5年。所以在巴罗洛，存在着新、旧两种风格的葡萄酒。选购巴罗洛酒时，应该先确定自己想买哪一种风格的酒，然后再咨询酒商产品是“革新派”还是“传统派”的。
Tradition v.s. Modern Styles
As the traditional styles of Barolo wine making is too slow and costly. In the late 20th century， a group of reformative Barolo producers started making more modern， international styles of Barolos that are fruitier， less tannic， and drink best after 2 to 5 years. Before you select a Barolo， remember to decide on your preferred style before contacting wineries.
在40年前，如果有人说一个意大利葡萄酒产区能够与法国顶级产区平起平坐，那就像今天说中国队将与西班牙争夺2014世界杯冠军一样，纯属无聊的冷笑话。上世纪70年代，就连意大利美食家伊丽莎白·大卫（Elizabeth David）也在自己的书中识趣地建议读者：品尝意大利酒时要抱着“乐观和友善的探索精神，而不是苛刻地拿它与法国酒作比较。”
那时所有人都知道意大利酒上不了台面，但在产量上这个国家却一直是世界第一。意大利人太热爱葡萄酒了，他们每天大口吞咽着同样的葡萄酒，而且是没有牌子的。餐厅里很少能见到酒单，通常只有老板简单的一句：“红的，还是白的？”简而言之，那时的意大利酒重量不重质，而且口感比较粗糙。
到了70年代后期，一些离经叛道的改革者开始带头改造意大利葡萄酒。这场革命一直持续了十多年，一些富有特色的意大利产区开始在全球崭露头角，并且渐渐与法国顶级产区并驾齐驱。在这些崛起的产区中，皮埃蒙特的巴罗洛村就是其中最杰出的代表，那里被认为能酿造出意大利最好、最具个性的葡萄酒。而在全世界品酒家的眼中，巴罗洛葡萄酒也是最桀骜不驯的佳酿。
40 years ago， if someone told you that an Italian wine region could compete with top French wine regions， you would react as if someone tells you now that China will compete with Spain in the 2014 World Cup final. In the 1963 edition of her book Food， Italian sommelier Elizabeth David advised readers to approach Italian wine "in a spirit of optimism and amiable inquiry， rather than with harsh comparisons to the wines of France.”
Despite the lack of reputation， Italy has always been the world’s largest wine producer. The Italians love wines and drink wines every day， although most of them of not branded. If you went to an Italian restaurant back them， you would be offered the choice of “red or white？” In those days， Italians focus more on quantity than quality.
In the late 70s， some unorthodox reformers started to reform Italian wines. After over 10 years， some wine regions carrying unique Italian characteristics gradually rose to international fame and caught up with top French wine regions. Barolo is one of best. In the eyes of sommeliers， Barolo produces the world’s most unyielding wines. “王者之酒”沉浮记
虽然巴罗洛的葡萄酒最近几十年才享誉全球，但它却有过辉煌的历史。早在中世纪，巴罗洛葡萄酒就有“酒中之王、王者之酒”的声誉，曾受到萨鲁佐女侯爵、萨丁尼亚王子、教皇约翰·保罗二世的喜爱，甚至是路易十四餐桌上的常客。不过随着法国葡萄酒的崛起，巴罗洛在随后几个世纪里逐渐遭到冷落。
“葡萄酒之王”为何也会被人遗忘？美国葡萄酒专家爱德华·斯坦伯格（Edward Steinberg）曾如此回答过：“葡萄酒就像食物，若风味太特别，就很难广受欢迎。这就是顶级巴罗洛葡萄酒的困境。”巴罗洛葡萄酒的口感太浓烈、太深沉，需要储存太久的年头才能喝。
直到1976年，美国人梅纳·埃莫林（Maynard Amerine）还在其著作《葡萄酒：感官评鉴》这样写道：“巴罗洛不管新酒还是老酒，尝起来都很苦涩。即使经过15到20年的窖藏，也无法酝酿出极佳的香气。”当时的美国人正在对拉菲、玛歌等波尔多名庄酒疯狂崇拜，他们耐不住性子去慢慢品味陈年的巴罗洛葡萄酒。
到上世纪八、九十年代，巴罗洛葡萄酒才渐渐被全世界所接受。不过此时的接受并非无条件的。在许多世界级品鉴会上，酒评人们一边给予陈年巴罗洛葡萄酒“丰富” “强烈” “令人印象深刻”等好评，一边又会说它“奇怪” “对喝惯波尔多葡萄酒的人来说显得很特异”。可在真正欣赏巴罗洛葡萄酒的人看来，巴罗洛与波尔多，就像高尔夫和足球，真正能欣赏前者的毕竟是少数人。
到上世纪90年代后期，巴罗洛开始重新占据它“王者之酒”的地位，开始和波尔多等世界顶级酒庄并驾齐驱。越来越多品醇客对巴罗洛陈放数十年之后绽放出的奇特香气着迷，巴罗洛美学渐渐开始征服世界。
Rise and Fall
Although only rise to fame in the recent decades， Barolo wines had a glorious history. In the Middle Ages， Barolo wines had been called the “king of wines” and was favored by people like Marquess Saluzzo， Princess Sardegna， Pope John Paul II， even Louis XIV. But with the rise of French wine， Barolo wines lost favor in the following centuries.
The reason， as explained by American wine expert Edward Steinberg is that， “Like foods， however， wines can be too distinctive to be universally appealing， Such was the predicament of great Barolo wines.” Barolo wines are too tannic that it takes years of aging to create a good taste.
As late as in 1976， Maynard Amerine wrote in his book， Wines： Their Sensory Evaluation， that “Barolo appears most often bitter astringent when young and also when old. Even at fifteen to twenty years， the aging does not produce an outstanding bouquet. ” The Americans at that time were too crazy about bordeaux wineries including Laffe and Chateau Margaux to spare time for Barolo wines.
In the 1980s and 90s， Barolo wines finally reclaimed worldwide reputation. But that does not come easily. At international wine tastings， sommeliers praised aging Barolo wines as “rich”， “strong”， and “impressive” but also claimed that they are “strange”， and “weird for people used to Bordeaux wines.” But for Barolo wine aficionados， Barolo is to Bordeaux as golf is to soccer. Only a very few could appreciate its true flavor.
In late 1990s， Barolo wines regained its title as “king of wines”， attracting more and more wine lovers to its aroma out of decades of aging.
赛乐图
赛乐图（Ceretto）酒庄是一座由三代人经营，超过70多年历史的家族精品酒庄，其中最具代表性的就是碧高石头园巴罗洛葡萄酒（BAROLO BRICCO ROCCH）。这款酒酒体复杂而优雅，口感平衡，有宜人的甜美黑色樱桃果味，还有玫瑰花香，橡木香。一经推出即获得众多好评。 Ceretto
Ceretto is family owned winery that has been passed down for three generations over 70 years. Barolo Bricco Rocch is one of its renowned products. With balanced taste， rich texture， and sweet cherry， rose and oak aromas， the wine became an instant hit when first introduced to the Market.
纳比奥罗的美学
巴罗洛的葡萄酒美学究竟是什么？
任何一位专业品酒师都知道，巴罗洛葡萄酒是全世界口感最强劲、含糖量最少的葡萄酒。强烈的单宁令新酿造的巴罗洛葡萄酒口感极其干涩，它们需要陈化至少30年，等酒体柔化后才能称为“真正的巴罗洛酒”。然而一旦你尝过陈化好的巴罗洛葡萄酒，马上会认识到这种酒的伟大与尊贵。陈年的巴罗洛葡萄酒散发着紫罗兰、玫瑰、甘草、胡椒类香料、松露、皮革、烟草等芳香，漫长岁月塑造的风格是其他任何名酒都无法模仿的。
巴罗洛葡萄酒之所以有这种独特的魅力，很大程度是因为当地唯一的葡萄品种——纳比奥罗（Nebbiolo）。这是一种只产于意大利西北部、非常特别的葡萄品种。意大利葡萄酒传奇人物、嘉雅酒庄庄主安吉罗·嘉雅（Angelo Gaja）曾这样形容纳比奥罗：“赤霞珠（波尔多名品葡萄品种）就像美国电影明星约翰·韦恩（John Wayne）。当约翰·韦恩进入房间，他站在中间，非常平易近人，他很容易被见到。纳比奥罗则像意大利电影明星马塞罗·马斯托依安尼（Marcello Mastroianni），他会走到房间的角落，如果你想认识他，你必须去接近他。”
这个比喻实在太贴切了，它恰好说明了为什么巴罗洛酒需要人们慢慢去发觉、接受，而波尔多葡萄酒总能第一时间打动你，后者显得光芒四射，前者则更加深邃迷人。
不过，纳比奥罗是一种非常难以驾驭的葡萄。它不仅需要适宜的土壤，还需要精益求精的酿造技艺，以及在酒窖里漫长的保存时间。由于这些苛刻的要求，使得巴罗洛产区每年只出产2000到3000箱葡萄酒，这样的产量类似于法国勃艮第产区（以出产小产量、高品质葡萄酒著称，其顶级产品比拉菲等波尔多列级名庄酒贵上十多倍）。正因如此，巴罗洛葡萄酒普遍都很昂贵。一瓶好的巴罗洛葡萄酒，当地价格至少要50欧元，而且售价还随着陈年时间的增加而上涨。顶级巴罗洛葡萄酒更是步入奢侈品的行列。
Nebbiola， The Aesthetics of Barolo Wines
Barolo wines are the world’s most tannic and least sweet wines. They are very rich on tannin and could take more than 30 years for the wine to soften up and become ready for you to appreciate the greatness of “true Barolo wines”. Long years of aging endows Barolo wines unique aromas ranging from licorice， violet， spice， truffle， leather， to tabacco.
The unique features are attributable to the only grape in the Piedmont region， Nebbiolo. Nebbiolo is a variety of grape unique to the northwest of Italy. Angelo Gaja， legendary owner of Gaja Winery once said： “Cabernet is to John Wayne， as Nebbiolo is to Marcello Mastroianni. When John Wayne enters the room， he stands in the center of the room and cannot help but be noticed. Nebbiolo is like Marcello Mastroianni： he enters the room and stands quietly in the corner， waiting for you to approach him.”
This explains why bordeaux wines could impress you at first contact， while Barolo wines takes time to be appreciated and accepted. Bordeaux wines are more glamorous， Barolo wines are more sophisticated and charming.
But Nebbiolo is a vine most elusive and difficult to master. It is notoriously demanding on soil， brewing techniques， and aging time. Barolo only produces 2000 to 3000 cases of wine each year， equivalent to the production of top Burgundy wineries （known for small production， high quality wines， the best of which are ten times expensive than Laffe and other bordeaux wines） and similarly expensive. A good Barolo costs at least 50 euros locally， and the price goes up as it ages. Top Barolo wines are considered by many as luxury goods.
最传统的巴罗洛坚守者们依然有着自己的骄傲与坚持。作为“传统派”巴罗洛代表的佳科莫·孔诺酒庄（Giacomo Conterno Cascina Francia）的历史可以追溯到18世纪。在近一个多世纪里，佳科莫·孔诺恪守传统，并遵循着巴罗洛的格言：一瓶好的巴罗洛葡萄酒在刚刚装瓶时应该令人难以入口，但在20、30、40年后，它会演变成一款伟大的酒。尤其是佳科莫蒙菲特巴罗洛珍藏酒款，只在特殊年份生产，普通的巴罗洛亦不是每年都会生产。
Giacomo Conterno Cascina Francia
Since its establishment in the 18th century， Giacomo Conterno Cascina Francia has been following the traditional style of wine making， believing in the Barolo maxim that “a good Barolo may be too astringent to drink when it is bottled， but after 20， 30， or 40 years， it will become a great wine.” Giacomo Monfortino Barolo for example are made only in selected years. Of course， most Barolo wines are not produced every year.