“拨雪挑来塌地菘,味如蜜藕更肥浓。”这是南宋著名诗人范成大在《冬日田园杂兴诗》中,盛赞塌地菘的名句。塌地菘,即“乌塌菜”,又名“塌菜”、“塌棵菜”,乃十字花科白菜的一个变种。“菘”即白菜的古称,因此清代吴其浚在《植物名实图考》中谓“塌地菘”是“黑叶白菜之类”,可见古人对植物的变种现象也早有认识。乌塌菜的品类甚多,按叶形及颜色,一般可分 “Pick snow to fall 菘, taste like honey lotus more fat.” This is a famous poet in the Southern Song Dynasty Fan Chengda in the “winter pastoral Miscellaneous Poetry”, praised the famous place. Collapse 菘, that is, “Wu slush dishes”, also known as “collapsing”, “collapse of vegetables” is a variant of Brassicaceae cabbage. “菘” is the ancient name of cabbage, so the Qing Dynasty Wu Qijun in the “plant name map test” that “fallen land 菘” is “black cabbage and the like,” shows that the ancients have long been aware of the phenomenon of plant variants. There are many varieties of black-fried vegetables, by leaf shape and color, generally can be divided