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我是那种现在为数不多的,地道的北京人。因为,我是在紫禁城朱砂色的大墙边儿长大的,我爸爸、我爷爷也是在那儿长大的。我小的时候儿,夏天的每个傍晚几乎都在天安门前那两个石狮子的肚子底下钻来钻去,看太阳落在西长安街的尽头;冬天的每个清晨几乎都能看到夹杂着一两只点子的成群的白鸽掠过东华门的城楼,徘徊在筒子河的上空,阵阵鸽哨声在紫禁城的城墙上飘过,回荡在我的耳边,也回荡在我的心里,直到今天。这两个字融在我的血里,融在我的脾气秉性里。我写北京的吃食其实并不是在介绍那些菜的做法和吃法,也不是为纪念那些已经消失或正在消失的字号、规矩,而是想让您体味北京人的生活方式以及由此形成的生活艺术。毕竟,那些大菜小点之间蕴涵着北京人太多的生活样貌,体现了北京生活之乐、之美、之独树一格。
I am one of the few Pekingese nowadays. Because I grew up in the vermilion wall of the Forbidden City, where my father and my grandpa grew up. When I was a child, almost every evening in the summer was drilled under the belly of the two stone lions in front of Tiananmen Square to see the sun fall on the end of West Chang’an Avenue. Almost every morning in winter can be seen inclusions A pack of twelve pigeons swirling through the towers of Donghuamen, hovering over the river Chechu, the whistling whistling waves drifting across the walls of the Forbidden City, reverberating in my ears and echoing in me Heart, until today. These two words melt in my blood and blend in my temper. The food I eat in Beijing is actually not introducing the practices and eating methods of those dishes, nor is it to commemorate those who have disappeared or are disappearing size, rules, but want you to understand the Beijing lifestyle and the resulting life art. After all, there are too many beijing lives between those small dishes, reflecting the beauty and beauty of life in Beijing.