Infragravity Waves Produced by Wave Groups on Beaches

来源 :China Ocean Engineering | 被引量 : 0次 | 上传用户:editzhang
下载到本地 , 更方便阅读
声明 : 本文档内容版权归属内容提供方 , 如果您对本文有版权争议 , 可与客服联系进行内容授权或下架
论文部分内容阅读
The generation of low frequency waves by a single or double wave groups incident upon two plane beaches with the slope of 1/40 and 1/100 is investigated experimentally and numerically. A new type of wave maker signal is used to generate the groups, allowing the bound long wave (set-down) to be included in the group. The experiments show that the low frequency wave is generated during breaking and propagation to the shoreline of the wave group. This process of generation and propagation of low frequency waves is simulated numerically by solving the short-wave averaged mass and momentum conservation equations. The computed and measured results are in good agreement. The mechanism of generation of low frequency waves in the surf zone is examined and discussed. The generation of low frequency waves by a single or double wave groups incident incident two plane beaches with the slope of 1/40 and 1/100 is investigated experimentally and numerically. A new type of wave maker signal is used to generate the groups the bound long wave (set-down) to be included in the group. The experiments show that the low frequency wave is generated during breaking and propagation to the shoreline of the wave group. This process of generation and propagation of low frequency waves is simulated The mechanism of generation of low frequency waves in the surf zone is examined and discussed.
其他文献
为探究吕家坨井田地质构造格局,根据钻孔勘探资料,采用分形理论和趋势面分析方法,研究了井田7
期刊
空气质量预报模式系统是空气质量状况预测、潜在重污染事件预警、外场观测实验指导的关键平台.rn目前,空气质量预报模式正在从离线耦合向在线全耦合模式过渡,我国迄今未形成
期刊
我们库房放着成箱的烟,都是公司老总买来专门送客户的。上星期,老总要去A市拜访客户,临出发前,老总让我到库房拿十条"软中华"放后备箱。在去的路上听老总念叨,要去的这家企业是
为探究吕家坨井田地质构造格局,根据钻孔勘探资料,采用分形理论和趋势面分析方法,研究了井田7
本文从混沌理论视角出发,分析语言的混沌性特点及如何从语言学角度对其进行分析解释.研究发现语言应作为一个完整的开放的系统来研究,而不是孤立地研究或分割成各零散的部分
为探究吕家坨井田地质构造格局,根据钻孔勘探资料,采用分形理论和趋势面分析方法,研究了井田7
期刊
检察官执法办案的过程不仅仅是一个法律适用的过程,而是一个情法理交织、内外因素共同作用的复合演绎过程,案件的办理过程和结果,除了会受到承办检察官知识结构、思维方式等
期刊
前几天有人打来电话咨询,说他父亲是一家国有煤矿企业的老工人,染上了尘肺病,现在已经二期了。工伤早已鉴定完,但迟迟没得到伤残等级证书,因此享受不到医保待遇。他希望我们问问省
合成了能定位水解切断DNA的ODN-铈配合物人工核酸定位水解切断试剂。使用HPLC对5'-EDTA-P-10mersODN进行了表征;运用荧光光谱研究了5'-P-10mersODN和单链DNA之间的杂交反应,证实合成的人工核酸定位水解切断试剂能够识别底物DNA,并与之结合;电泳实验结果表明该人工定位切断试剂具有良好的定位水解切断单链DNA的效果,并对人工定位切断试剂切断DNA的位点进行了探讨。该人
期刊
为探究吕家坨井田地质构造格局,根据钻孔勘探资料,采用分形理论和趋势面分析方法,研究了井田7