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20世纪的中国文人怀乡散文中,“故乡的食物”是其永恒的主题。文人们背井离乡,漂泊异域,只能通过抒写个体生命的味觉记忆,在乡愁与食物的天然联系中,凸显自己对传统文化的坚持。梁实秋的豆汁儿,康鲁孙的豌豆黄,张晓风的酸梅汤,董桥的凉拌小菜,大多是些以俗为雅的日常吃食。文人们或说对故乡风物的一往情深,在说味与品味中,体现可贵的平民精神,在味觉与语言的关系中,把玩中国语言文化的魅力!
In the 20th century Chinese scholar nostalgia prose, “hometown food” is its eternal theme. Literati are far from home, wandering exotic, only through the narrative of individual life taste memory, nostalgia and food in the natural contact, highlighting their adherence to traditional culture. Liang Shiqiu children’s bean juice, Kang Lu Sun peas yellow, Zhang Xiaofeng sour plum, Dong Qiao’s cold side dishes, most of them are common to everyday delicacies. The literati or the native of the hometown of fond memories, in that taste and taste, reflect the valuable spirit of the civilian population, in the relationship between taste and language, play the charm of Chinese language and culture!