日本作家谷崎润一郎在《阴翳礼赞》中写到:京都的一家著名餐馆用纸罩电气座灯取代了蜡烛,还好,餐馆为喜欢老样子的客人换上烛台,他得以在电气灯的年代重新体会烛光。他发现,漆器之美是以黯淡为条件方能体味的,涂漆的餐具在朦胧的微光下不仅幽深、厚重,而且只有在朦胧的微光下才能感受到漆的光泽。连带着日式的餐食,如红酱汤、如羊羹、如搭配生鱼片和腌菜的浓质酱油,都是唯有盛放在黑、褐、红色的漆器里才能供人观 Japanese writer Tanizaki Tanichiro wrote in “Yin Yin Praise,” that a well-known restaurant in Kyoto replaced the candle with a paper cover electric seat lamp. Fortunately, the restaurant changed the candlestick for an old-fashioned guest, Re-understand the candlelight. He found that the beauty of lacquer was appreciated on the condition of dimness. The painted tableware was not only dark and heavy under the dim light, but also felt the luster of the paint only under the dim light. Even with Japanese meals, such as red miso soup, such as yam soup, such as soy sauce with pickles and thick soy sauce, are only in full bloom in black, brown, red lacquer for people view